Season with salt, add the rice, and stir with a wooden spoon until all the grains are coated with oil, about 2 minutes.
Add the wine, the stock and 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, for 12 minutes, or until the rice is barely tender. Add the clams, stir, and cook over medium heat until the clams open, about 10 to 12 minutes. Add more water if needed for a soup-like, but not to thin, consistency.
Remove from the heat, stir in the cilantro and the cheese, if using. Taste, correct for salt, and add several turns of black pepper. Stir, ladle into soup bowls, and enjoy right away.
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This recipe comes from a San Francisco firefighter named Bob Lopez of Truck 9, who learned to make it from his mother. It is one of many traditional versions. Lopez likes to serve it wrapped in soft corn tortillas and topped with sour cream and cilantro, with the rice and beans alongside.
Chili Verde
Serves 6
1 pound tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 pounds boneless pork butt, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 fresh jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
5 garlic cloves, minced
— Kosher salt
— Corn tortillas, hot
— Sour cream, or Mexican crema
— Cilantro leaves, chopped
— White rice or Mexican rice
— Cooked pinto beans, seasoned with salt and garlic
Set a large, deep skillet over high heat, add the tomatillos and toast them in the pan until they are lightly browned, about 5 minutes; agitate the pan as they cook so that they do not burn. Transfer them to a food processor or blender and pulse to form a smooth purée. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Pour the olive oil into the skillet, add the pork and brown it on all sides. Stir in the jalapeños and garlic and sauté for 3 minutes. Season with salt.
Pour in the puréed tomatillos, stir, and bring to boil. Reduce the heat so that the liquid simmers very gently. Cover and continue to cook until the pork is as tender as butter, about 2 to 2½ hours.
Remove from the heat, taste, and correct for salt.
To serve, wrap the tortillas in tea towels to keep them warm. Put the sour cream or crema and the cilantro in small bowls. Set these ingredients and the rice and beans on the table, with the chili verde alongside so that guests can help themselves.
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These ribs are from Marty Vewrhaeg, a San Francisco firefighter working with Engine 13. The kitchen at Station 13 is filled with large restaurant-sized spice containers and he experimented with all of them until he came up with this version. Coleslaw and cornbread made great accompaniments.
Slow-roasted Baby Back Ribs
Serves 4 to 6
8-10 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon dried paprika
1 tablespoon dried oregano
2 teaspoons dried thyme
— Black pepper in a mill
4 pounds (2 slabs) baby back pork ribs
2 cups Fireboat Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
